Online Virtual Tours

One Click Is Enough To Create An Online Virtual Tour

The Online Virtual Tour Creator supports several image formats and lets you create Virtual Tours from the scratch in just two clicks:

  • A click from your camera to capture 360 degree around in a single exposure.

  • A click from your mouse to transform the picture into an Interactive Virtual Tour.

With your own camera and free.


Parabolic Mirrors

Contact Information

360 Facil

Barcelona, España

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Santiago, Chile

Contact Us

E-Mail :

Retractable Parabolic Mirror


Find An Answer To Your Enquiry Entering The Forum

This is the place to ask for data you didn't find elsewhere and also a good spot to help others with your knowledge :


Subscribe To Our Newsletter

To be notified of major updates to our site and/or other related info please type in your email adress :



A Minimal Investment To Update Your Online Real Estate Agency

Offer more and better services to your clients by showing your Real Estate Portfolio in 360 degree Virtual Tours. Nothing is more alike to actually being in the place and you can do it yourself with the same ease as you do it with traditional pictures.

The Ideal Complement To Any Website

Every Webmaster can notoriously improve his/her services by adding to them interactive Virtual Tours that he/she can do with his/her own equipment and in as little as two clicks.

The Freeware Programs That Will Do All The Job

Depending on the panorama type, the combination of this four free programs, three, two, one or even none of them is all the multimedi photographer needs to complete his/her work.

Renovated Online Virtual Tour Creator : improved design, Facebook comments box for each Virtual Tour, internal engine optimized for greater speed, compatibility with more browsers and increased security.

Complete Spherical Photos

To photograph an entire sphere including the nadir it is necessary to add to the sequence of images of the panorama one picture of the space under the camera, taken after removing the tripod, and with the camera held on the same position.

On this page we'll describe, step by step, the conversion of a sequence of images into a complete 360 x 180 degree sphere, including the edition of the nadir and the adition of a semi-transparent logo, all done with free software. To know other options check out the Software section on the main menu.

We count on the following image sequence, taken with the help of a multiple rows nodal rotator and a full frame fisheye converter : one picture of the cieling or zenith, six lateral shots spanning the entire 360 degree and two shots pointing down to the nadir with the nodal rotator consecutively positioned to one side of the camera and to the opposite so it si possible to recreate the area with parts of both pictures :


We also count on a photograph of the nadir that we have taken, handheld, immediately after separating the camera from the rotator and tripod and removing these from the scene. We have taken it with the same camera we photographed the sequence with, without removing the fisheye lens and keeping the same exposure value and other settings we had used for the rest of pictures, so that this picture is one more of the sequence, except for this is not taken from the exact nodal point of the lens and the camera is naturally held not as firmly as it was held by the tripod. Also, the feet and body of the photographer can be seen on it, holding the camera from a side trying not to throw any shades over the ground :

To get started, we'll drag the whole sequence of images that are part of a panorama to Hugin's main window to open the files. We will not include the handheld picture of the nadir on this step because we know the positioning of the nodal point could never be identical to the one in the pictures taken with a tripod and nodal rotator and so it will need to be processed in a different way than the rest :

Hugin has direct access to the information contained in the image files about the camera, lens and settings used at photographing time. However, sometimes we'll work with files which have been modified or converted to another format thus losing such information. In the case of the example, the program does not find the information corresponding to the image located at C:/Panorama/original01.jpg and so it prompts a dialog windows asking for data. The default Lens Type / Tipo de Objetivo is Normal (rectilinear) so we'll display the menu to select the type of lens we have used :

As a Lens Type we'll select Full Frame Fisheye / Ojo de pez de marco completo. In our case we don't know the Horizontal Field Of View but instead, we know we have use an 8 mm Fisheye Converter and we also know that the focal distance multiplier of the Nikon 5000 camera we have used is 1,5. With these two latest facts, Hugin estimates the first and immediately includes it in the corresponding box :

After clicking on Accept / Aceptar a new dialog window similar to the one that just passed could pop up, if the program still cannot access the information included in other images. In our case, Hugin has recongnized the rest of the files by itself. The program's main window shows the data of the open files : nine images loaded and the Lens Type we have set manually :

Activating with a click the Images / Imagenes tab we can see the information corresponding to each one of the loaded images. We check that all of them bear the same dimesions :

In the Camera and Lens / Camara y objetivo tab we can check that indeed the data is technically very similar in all images :

In the Mask / Mascara tab we'll find the same list of images and none of them with active masks information :

By clicking on the corresponding line we can select any image in order to look for areas to mask. On the first photo we'll choose none :

With a click or with an arrow key we can move on to the next image. In this case we decide to exclude from the area to stictch the lower right end of the picture since part of the nodal rotator peeps in there, so being carefull to always keep the image active we'll click on Add new mask / Agregar nueva mascara :

With the help of the mouse we'll enclose the area to select it. The default Mask Type is Exclude region / Excluir area so we don't need to change it for any other :

With a click we go on to the next image. On it the rotator is also visible at the same corner :

Then we'll select the area to exclude from the panorama just as we did with the previous image :

Another click and another image with the same rotator in the corner. Predictably, all the pictures in this row will include a glimpse of the rotator always in the same corner :

A new selection excludes the area from the panorama to be created :

We'll go on to the next image :

And add a new mask to exclude once again the image of the rotator from the panorama :

No we'll select the image number 5 :

And also exclude from it the image of the rotator :

There is one more left :

And with this one we finish excluding areas from the central strip of the panorama :

In the next image we have the nadir of the scene. The rotator that holds the camera from above and pointing straight down now occupies an entire side of the picture, but it is not important since the view of this side is captured in the next image, photographed with the rotator positioned on the opposite side :

We'll carefully exclude the area of the rotator including its center and the entire lateral :

The same we'll do with the next image. It is identical to the previous one except for the camera has totated togheter with the rotator, which was moved from side to side. This way, both images are complementary :

Once again, we'll create a mask to exclude from the panorama every visible part of the gear, this is both its center and lateral :

We are ready to get back to the Images tab to start the stitching process. To get started we'll select the Control Points / Puntos de Control detector :

The Control Points detectors are external programs aditional to Hugin. Out of those found at the drop-down menu only a few come installed with Hugin, while others need to be downloaded and installed independently. Not all of them are free. We'll use the default detector, Hugins CPFind freeware :

By selecting the detector we can see the default amount of Control Points is ten points by overlap. The larger the number of Control Points, the greater the stitching presition and the slower working speed :

We'll increase the number of Control Points up to a maximum of 50 points by overlap and click to start the stitching process :

A new window pops up where we can see the program's internal processes as they are conducted :

When they are done, an alert like this tells us the number of Control Points found :

Hugin's main window has abeen refreshed with the new available information : on top of the number of ties between images, he program informs us that the images are forming two unconnected groups, one of the comprising only one picture. This means that one of the images is not being recognized as a part of the entire panorama. It also tells us that this is the image identified with the number 0 in the image's lists in Hugin tabs, so the key to solve this problem could be found there :

Before focusing on this image, we'll try to give this problem a more general solution. Back on the Images tab, once again we'll display the menu to choose another Control Points detector :

This time we'll click on Align image stack / Alinear pila de imagenes :

We can keep the maximum of Control Points by overlap that we had defined earlier :

With a click we'll start a new Control Points search powered by this external detector installed togheter with Hugin :

Also during this search a new window will show us the internal processes of the detection. We won't pay much attention to it :

At the end of the process, a new alert tells us that in the later detection six new Control Points have been added to those previously detected. Will these be enough for the program to identify now all the images as belonging to the same panorama?

Apparently the answer is yes. At Hugin's main window, togheter with the updated figure representing the created Control Points, we can see that now all images are inwardly connected. We can also read that no aligning has been conducted using all of them :

We'll then click on Align... / Alinear... to create a first preview of the panorama, A new window opens to show details of the process. This is not important for us :

When the window closes we go back to Hugin's Asistant / Asistente tab to see the result of the aligning. According to the program, the adjust is very bad and there is a distance gap of up to more than 722 pixels between Control Point theoretically matching :

In other window which has opened at par, a preview of the panorama shows us why : the zenith shot appears embedded on a side. This confirms us that it is indeed the same image numbered 0 which had not been detected in the first attempt which has again induced a fail at the panorama creation. We'll choose to review its Control Points :

We can close the window with the failed preview and go back to Hugin's main window, to the Control Points / Puntos de Control tab. This tab comprises two panes, each one dedicated to an image, to help analizing the ties between any two images. When opening it by the first time both panes show the first image from the list. By chance, in our case this is the image we want to work with :

By displaying the right side pane menu, we'll select another image to analize its ties with the image we are interested on, which remais selected in the left side pane :

AT a glance we can tell that the existing Control Point is not in the same spot at both photos. By clicking on the line corresponding to the point we can see close ups to each point's surroundings, which are very different. Clicking on Delete / Borrar we'll remove the connection :

Now there is no control point between these images but we can see that there is an area common to both where we can recognize, for example, this corner :

By clicking on the first pane we can see the location of the new control point. The image has got closer. We can re-position it with a click as many times as needed to position the point where we can recognize it :

On clicking on the right side pane, the program looks in this image for a point looking similiar to the point selected in the opposite pane. It usually finds it and selects its exact location. To add the new control point it only remains to click on Add / Agregar :

The red color in the tie tag warns us that the quality of the control point is poor. We can also see in the line corresponding to the point that the distance between control points in one and the other image exceeds of 1300 pixels. We'll ignore for a moment this warning, because until a new aligning of the images is made, the program will still consider that the right position for the nadir shot is on a side. However, we will not run a new aligning before setting a few other control points to grant a correct positioning of the panorama's zenith image :

With a click on the arrow we can change the right side pane image by the next one, while on the left side pane the zenith's image remains visible. In this combination we'll add two control points to the panorama :

With another click on the arrow we go on to the next image. Here we'll add one control point :

Next we'll go on to the next image to add another control point :

In the next image we add two of them. It is convenient to palce control points distant from each other to better define the common area between the right and left images :

In the last comparison we'll establish two more control points. We'll soon know if these have been enough :

Back on the main Hugin's window, on the initial tab we can see the amount of available control points has increased as we have created points manually. It only remains to align the images by clicking on Align... / Alinear... to know if we'll need to look for still more control points :

A window opens with internal details of the aligning process :

When the process comes to an end this window closes itself. On Hugin's main window the program warns us that the adjust quality is very bad and that there are point with over 700 pixels of distance between their two locations :

However, in the panorama preview window, which has simultaneously opened, we can see that now the zenith's image is located on its right place. The control points have been enough. It remains to improve the stitching quality by improving the control points's quality :

From the See menu or by clicking on the nearby icon, it is possible to launch the Control points table / Tabla de puntos de control :

This new window shows us a line by line detail of all Control Points of the different overlaps between diverse images. Amongst the details shown we find in a column the distance between the location of any certain point at both images. A large distance is a sign of an error. By clicking on the Distance / Distancia title we'll sort all point pairs by the explained distance :

The idea now is to delete the less precisely located points without making the rest of the control points loose its ability to combine the images. We'll try deleting the pairs with a distance over a hundred pixels, for which we'll select the first lines of the list and click on Delete / Borrar :

We have deleted five pairs of control points. The maximum error now is 63 pixels :

Back on the program's main window we see that the total of control points has registered the deletion of some of them. We'll click on Align... / Alinear... to see the result of these changes :

The asitant window will show us the internal processes as Hugin does the aligning :

When it's over we find the Hugin still considers the obtained aligning bad. Earlier it was very bad so we have progressed. During the optimization the distance between pairs of points have been adjusted. Some of them have increased and, for example, the maximum distance now is almost 72 pixels while before optimizing it was just 63 pixels :

Also the Panorama preview window has opened and it doesn't look so bad. We feel that we are going the right way but we'll still trust Hugin which is warning us the quality of our adjust is bad :

Once again we'll go to the Control points table / Tabla de puntos de control :

We'll try to drastically increase the quality of the control points used by deleting every pair whose distance is larger than 15 pixels :

We'll then select the first fourteen control point's pairs of the list and click to remove them :

Now the distance of the least precise pair is below fifteen pixels :

In the main window we can see that now there are only a hundred and two pairs of control points left and that the aligning hasn't yet been done with this settings :

We'll start the Aligning / Alineacion which will open this process's window :

When it gets closed, we can see that Hugin's main window just approved our adjustment :

Simultaneously a new window has opened with the updated preview of the panorama. We'll enter the Move Drag / Mover Arrastrar tab :

To make sure the horizon is aligned we'll click on Straighten / Enderezar :

A slight change has occured to the horizon aligning. In a tool bar we find three input boxes where we can introduce numeric values to rotate the panorama according to any of the three axis in space. In the Pitch / Giro field we can introduce a value for the panorama to rotate around a vertical axis. We'll introduce a value of a hundred degree and with a minus sign we'll indicate that the rotation goes from right to left :

After hitting on Apply / Aplicar to execute the change the panorama aspect pleases us better, with the room's only empty wall splitted between the sides of the panoramic image :

Now we'll give the panorama a tilt. Our goal is to be able to edit the nadir, which so far extends all along the lower end of the panorama. We'll tilt the image ninety degree to locate the nadir in its center :

This is the image we need to be able to easily edit the nadir, so we are going to save it. We can close the Preview Window and go on to Hugin's main window. In the Stitch / Empalmar tab we'll choose a projection type :

We'll display the menu altough this is not necessary in our example for we intend to create a panorama with the default projection :

We'll select Equirectangular as output projecton type. We must make sure that the dimensions of the image match the necessary ones to the required projection, ie, that the image is twice as wide as it is high :

We can display the menu to choose a file format. We'll select PNG because this format allows us to keep the transparent background of the image :

To create the file we'll click on Stitch now / Empalmar ahora :

A dialog window opens to define a name and a location for the file to be created. Next we'll click on Save / Guardar :

A new window opens to show us the program's internal processes while the stitching takes place :

During the process we can see in the destination folder the temporary files used by Hugin to stitch the images :

When the process ends the temporary files are automatically removed and only the newly created file remains :

This is the aspect of the panorama we have saved and which we'll use to edit the nadir :

To do this, we'll leave Hugin aside for a moment and work with an image editing tool. In this tutorial we'll use Gimp, the excellent open source image's editor. We'll need the image of a color circle neatly distinguished from its background. We'll use a circle we had previously saved, otherwise we could have created one on the go with the help of Gimp's Ellipse Selection / Seleccion Eliptica tool :

We'll work more comfortably using Gimp's Full Screen mode. We can display the Imagen / Image menu :

Now we can click on Scale Image / Escalar Imagen :

The window shows us the dimensions of our circle. It is possible that we may need a few attempts before we can correctly estimate the dimensions of the circle we need to completely cover the empty space in the nadir of our panorama :

In our example, we have determined that a circle included in a 440 x 440 pixels should be enough, so we'll introduce this figures in the corresponding boxes and click on Scale / Escalar to execute the command :

The circle is now as big as we need it to cover our nadir :

We'll use the color based selection tool to select the internal area of the circle :

We can see that the circle is selected :

We'll display the Edit / Editar menu to click on Copy / Copiar or we could instead copy the selection by hitting the Control + C key combination :

With the circle copied to the computer's clipboard, we'll now look for the panorama with the hole in the nadir :

We'll display the Edit / Editar menu to click on Paste / Pegar. Alternatively we can get the same thing done with the Control + V key combination :

The dark circle now appears covering the panorama's nadir :

To keep from moving it from its location it will be necessary to anchor the image by displaying the Layer / Capa menu to click on Anchor Layer / Anclar Capa :

Now that the circle and the panorama are in the same layer it is time to use again the color based selection tool from the tools menu :

With a click we'll select the dark area of the circle :

Clicking on the Delete / Borrar key of the keyboard we can remove the content of the selection. The panorama now has a hole at the nadir :

As we can see in the layer's window, the image of the panorama with a hole in the center occupies a layer in front of the transparent background of the file :

By displayng the Layer / Capa menu we can click on Duplicate Layer / Duplicar Capa :

Now we have two identical layers :

In between them we'll paste the image we've been keeping untouched from the beginning :

Our nadir shot is different from all other images we have used since while all of them have been photographed keeping the nodal point of the lens fixed in space with the help of a nodal rotator, the manual image has been captured from a much more random position. No matter at photographing time we've tried to mimic the location of the nodal point during the sequence, there is no way to photograph so with the presicion needed. It will be necessary to manually edit the file to achieve the coincidence wanted :

It will be easier to work in Full Screen mode :

At this point we'll need to look at the pictures to decide the most convenient type of edition to make them match each other. This depends on the images themselves and on the editor's preferences and his/her handling of the different tools. Given the image in our example we think it would be useful to start by displaying the Image / Imagen menu to choose Transform / Transformar the image by rotating it 180 degree :

With this orientation it will be more easily adjusted to the needed positioning to complete the panorama's nadir. We'll select the image by displaying the Select / Seleccionar menu and clicking on All / Todo :

The moving points around it tells us that the image is selected :

By displaying the Edit / Editar menu we can click on Copy / Copiar or else we could get the same done by hitting the Control + C key combination :

With the image of the manual nadir saved to the computer's clipboard we'll go back to the panorama. In the layer's window we'll activate the lower layer so that when we paste the image of the nadir it will be positioned on top of the original panorama layer but underneath the copy of it that we had created :

Using the Edit / Editar menu or the Control + V key combination we'll paste the nadir image. It is automatically located in the center of the panorama. In the hole in the center of the later, we can now see part of the manual nadir we have added. A dotted line shows us the position of the entire image added between both panorama layers :

By clicking on the icon corresponding to the upper layer we'll make it invisible. Now we can see the image of the manual nadir over the panorama :

At this point every example will be different. The combination of tools we have used to modify the layer which contains the manual nadir has included a slight rotation of a few degree, downsizing of the image and dragging a few lines of the floor using Gimp's deformation and perspective tools. Once modified, the manual nadir looks like this :

Setting the upper layer to visible again we see that the circle hole in the center of the panorama now allow us to see through it a fraction of the edited nadir whose lines aproximately match the lines in the panorama layer :

It is time to save the modified image by displaying the File / Archivo menu and clicking on Save As / Guardar Como :

In the dialog window that opens we can now choose a location as well as a format and file name for our panorama with the edited nadir :

For having choosen to save our image as a PNG file a window with advanced layer options will pup up. The default option is right for us so we'll click on Enter to export the image forcing all layers to converge :

Another window offers us more options which we can ignore altogheter. We'll make sure to create the image with a low level of compression, in our case, we'll chosse zero for the highest photo quality :

Once the new image is saved we can find it at the previoulsy defined location, in our case, the same folder where we keep the source shots and the intermediate panorama we created at a previous step :

This is what our 360 x 180 degree complete sphere with nadir looks like :

To make it perfectly readable by panorama animation scripts it is recommendable to remap it so that the zenith occupies the upper end of the equirectangular panorama and the nadir its lower end. We'll get this done by reverting the step previuosly done with Hugin. For this we'll dragg the latest saved version of our panorama into Hugin's initial window :

Our panorama naturally does not contain aditional information such as that found on images taken straight out of a digicam, so when the program is unable to determine by itself the type of image will prompt for such identification with a dialog window :

We'll display the Type of lens menu to identify our image as of Equirectangular type :

We know that our image spans an horizontal angle of view of 360 degree, so we'll introduce this data into the corresponding box :

By doing this, the missing data will complete automatically. It only remains to go to the next window :

This is what Hugin's main window looks like with our panorama loaded :

We'll click on Panorama Preview / Vista Previa del Panorama to open a window with the wanted previous view of it :

With a click we'll move to the Move Drag / Mover Arrastrar tab :

Reverting the transformation done in a previous step, we'll apply to our image a rotation of a ninety degree, this time with a minus sign :

We already have a preview of the panorama with the nadir shot remapped :

We can close the preview window and go back to Hugin's main window to make the Stitch / Empalmar tab active. The output projection once again will be Equirectangular and the ratio between width and height is still two to one :

Once again we'll choose PNG as a format for our output file :

With all the data selected it only remains to click on Stitch Now / Empalmar Ahora :

In the new dialog window we'll choose a name and location for our spherical panorama :

A window will show us the internal processes of the transformation and saving of the image :

At the end of the transformation we have the 360 x 180 degree panorama that we have created. Click on the image to see it as an interactive Virtual Tour :

However, the matching of the panorama with the nadir isn't perfect. It could have never be since both images have not been photographed from the same nodal point. But we can still make it look better with a text line. In our case, we already have a text previously used and saved as a template. It is convenient to have one to use it the same for all panoramas or it is also possible to create a text on the go with the Text / Texto tool :

Our template consists of a transparent background containing a text that extends all along the image :

By displaying the Select / Seleccionar menu we'll click on All / Todo :

Displaying now the Edit / Editar menu we'll click on Copy / Copiar :

With the image of the text saved to our clipboard we'll go back again to the image of the created Spherical Panorama :

By displaying the Edit / Editar menu or using the Control + V key combination we'll paste the text image from the clipboard on top of the panorama :

The text appears centered over the image :

To dragg it to its definitive position we'll make the Move / Mover tool from the tool's menu active :

By using preferably the arrow keys to move the text allways vertically, we'll position it as high as the limit between the panorama and the edited nadir shot. The idea is to place a semi-transparent text over the seam so the latter will be kind of hidden among the lettering :

Once the text is moved to its definitive position we'll anchor the layer to avoid accidentally moving it :

Here is our Complete Spherical Panorama finished. It only remains to save it as a file :

We'll display the File / Archivo menu and click on Save As / Guardar Como :

In the dialog window we'll choose a name, location and format for our finalized panorama :

A new dialog window will pop up with advanced options. We'll make sure to create our file with a minimum or very low compression level so that the image quality would be good :

The file has been created and it is found at the specified location :

This is what the panorama we have created looks like. Click on the image to see it as an interactive Virtual Tour :

To know alternative ways to create Complete 360 x 180 degree Spheres check out the programs in the Software section. In the next page we'll talk about Fish Eye Shots.

Visitor's Feedback

Carlos ( says :

Hola, resulta que desde hace tiempo realizo fotografias de 360° y tengo una duda. Aunque tengo de varios tipos, planas, cilindricas, ultimamente quiero hacer la esfera completa, tomando una foto del cenit y otra del nadir junto con el resto. Uso un objetivo nikon de 16 mm y tengo varios programas de edicion, el panormastudio y sobre todo el autopano giga. Pues resulta que no consigo hacer la foto de 360° entera. Cuando las uno con el autopano al final siempre me sale una plana, una esferica o una cilindrica. Inteno usar el cubic converter para unir las caras pero me quedan huecos arriba y abajo. Mi pregunta, despues de este rollo, es: se puede hacer fotos 360° entera (con cielo y suelo) con un objetivo 16 mm o necesito un ojo de pez?. Y en este caso con el autopano giga se peuede hacer esta foto entera? Como ejemplo he colgado una foto en el tour virtual ("mi pueblo") que es una foto cilindrica. Muchas gracias


360 Facil ( says :

Hola Carlos. Gracias por tu consulta. Cualquier camara y cualquier lente te sirven para hacer fotografias esfericas siempre que las hagas girar alrededor del punto nodal. Cuanto mayor sea el angulo cubierto por el lente sera menor la cantidad de tomas necesarias para cubrir los 360x180 grados. Por ejemplo, con un ojo de pez bastarian tres tomas (los dos hemisferios opuestos y una toma adicional para el nadir). Con un 16 mm necesitaras mas tomas. Aun no hemos probado el Autopano Giga pero si AutoPano-Pro y funciono muy bien para crear fotos esfericas asi que creemos que no deberia haber difucltades con AutoPano Giga. Puedes ver nuestra prueba en la URL adjunta a este comentario. El caso es parecido aunque faltaria la toma del nadir para completar la esfera. Saludos y buena suerte!


Carlos ( says :

Gracias por contestar tan rapido y por la info. El autopano giga es practicamente igual que el autopano pro, lo que me pasa es que si en la serie de imagenes que componen el 360° pongo tb la de nadir y el cenit, como indicais en el ejemplo, el programa no me reconoce bien la panoramica, no reconoce los puntos de union de estas dos fotos con las del resto, puesto que no hay nada comun. Para que me haga bien la panoramica tengo que poner solo las 8 fotos (con un 16 mm en vertical), sin cielo y tierra. Asi si me la hace bien pero me gustaria sacer mas cielo y tierra. No se si me explico bien. Te dejo el ejemplo que he puesto en la pagina: Gracias


360 Facil ( says :

No es nada, Carlos. Fijate que de las proporciones del panorama de tu ejemplo surge que medido en grados cubre 360 en horizontal y menos de 66 en vertical. Esto indica que fotografiando en dos hileras horizontales con tu lente de 16 mm apenas seria posible cubrir menos de 132 grados sobre el total de 180 que van del cenit al nadir, o dicho de otra manera, son necesarias al menos tres hileras horizontales de disparos de 66 grados de alto para cubrir toda la esfera. Puesto que los disparos al cenit y al nadir no equivalen a hileras completas sino solo a media hilera cada uno (pues la otra mitad queda al otro lado del polo correspondiente), resulta que que por ello las tomas al nadir y al cenit no tienen puntos de contacto con la hilera central que forma el panorama ni siquiera por su parte mas ancha y por ello AutoPano no los conecta. La solucion seria fotografiar dos hileras horizontales, con menos de 66 grados de diferencia entre una y otra, para asegurar que ambas lineas tengan puntos en comun, lo cual sumado a los disparos al cenit y al nadir deberian hacer posible crear una esfera completa. Ten tambien en cuenta que a la hora de fotografiar el nadir a mano alzada no podras acertarle con precision al punto nodal de manera que para conseguir un empalme perfecto de esa toma sin dudas necesitaras agrandar, achicar o deformar ligeramente esa imagen y realizar este empalme de forma manual, para lo cual te conviene pasar en el proceso por un formato que pueda ser facilmente manipulado por editores de imagen tales como photoshop o gimp, tal como hemos hecho en el ejemplo de la URL a continuacion. Buena suerte y esperamos saber como te ha ido. Te mandamos saludos.


Carlos ( says :

Muchas gracias , lo acabo de entender perfectamente. Con mi 16 mm por mucho que hiciera foto al cenit y al nadir, al no tener puntos de union con las otras fotos y no abarcar los 180°, los programas de edicion no lo reconocian. Asi que por ahora me toca seguir haciendo fotos de 360° en horizontal. Una ultima pregunta: que diferencia hay entre foto esférica y foto cilíndrica a la hora del resultado final? Gracias y un saludo


360 Facil ( says :

Bien, no estoy seguro de entender la pregunta, pero las fotografias esfericas miden exactamente el doble de ancho que de alto, lo que traducido a grados significa 360x180, mientras que las cilindricas son aun mas anchas, es decir que a 360 grados de ancho corresponde menos de 180 grados de alto y por ello parte del recorrido vertical queda fuera de la imagen. Como consecuencia, al verlas en modo interactivo, las esfericas permiten ver en cualquier direccion aun hacia arriba y hacia abajo, mientras que las cilindricas estan limitadas a una franja horizontal que sera tanto mas angosta cuanto mayor sea la diferencia de proporciones entre el ancho y el alto, lo cual limita el recorrido vertical y tambien la sensacion envolvente ya que esta es producto de la modificacion en las lineas de perspectiva que ocurre cuando se recorre un Tour Virtual hacia arriba o hacia abajo. Una fotografia cilindrica angosta, por ejemplo la de la URL mas abajo creada a partir de 14 tomas de un lente de 50mm, practicamente no tiene espacio para tal cambio de perspectiva y por ello la sensacion envolvente que produce es muy limitada y el Tour Virtual se parece bastante a una imagen plana no envolvente que se recorre a lo largo (como los panoramas parciales interactivos, los cuales no tienen sensacion envolvente pues las perspectivas permanecen inalteradas en todo momento). Espero haber respondido a tu inquietud y no dejes de consultar cualquier otra duda. Gracias por tu aporte al sitio, saludos y hasta cualquier momento.


Dacam ( says :

Hola, felicitaciones por el sitio , está genial. Mi pregunta es si con el lente 18-105 de nikon ¿se pueden crear esféricas con el cenit y el nadir? ¿Cómo hacerlo con este lente que posee tan poco ángulo de cobertura de imagen? Nuevamente FELICIDADES por su trabajo.


360 Facil ( says :

Hola Dacam, Muchas Gracias por tu mensaje y tu consulta. La hemos movido a esta pagina porque es mas pertinente al tema de la misma y ademas porque tu duda es similar a la de Carlos, que fue discutida mas arriba. Puedes crear fotos esfericas con el cenit y el nadir incluidos, siempre que la camara gire alrededor del punto nodal del lente mientras tomas todas las imagenes para un mismo panorama. Es casi imposible realizar dos o tres tomas con esta caracteristica con un lente Ojo de Pez, lo que permitiria en teoria abarcar toda la esfera. Mucho mas dificil aun te seria conseguirlo con una camara cuyo angulo de vision en grados esta muy por debajo de 180. La conclusion es sencilla : necesitas un rotador nodal. No existe otra manera de fotografiar esferas completas. A mayor angulo de cobertura, menor cantidad de tomas, a menor angulo de cobertura necesitaras mas tomas para abarcar toda la esfera. En cualquier caso no podras hacerlo correctamente sin un rotador nodal y si lo tienes, entonces cualquier camara te servira. Para mas informacion acerca del punto nodal te recomendamos ver la URL adjunta a este comentario. Saludos y Buena Suerte!


Edison Ruilova ( says :

Para realizar ua toma de una cosina de aproxidamente 60metros cuadrados, como puedo reaizar la toma para que la foto gire 180 grados vertical y que lente puedo ocupar, ya que el lente 17-70 sigma me da distorsiones en el marco de una puerta. Favor que es el punto nodal y donde lo fijo


Edison Ruilova ( says :

favor ¿me puedes ayudar: Donde inicio mi toma numero 1, ¿en el piso o en techo cuando realizao fotos en interiores de areas pequeños? Cuando tomo la foto del techa, al final ?


360 Facil ( says :

Gracias por tus consultas, Edison. Puedes usar cualquier lente para fotografiar un panorama esferico de 360x180 grados. Lo que cambia es la cantidad de tomas necesarias para fotografiar la esfera. Si tienes un lente Ojo de Pez que capture 180 grados, entonces puedes fotografiar la esfera completa en tan poco como dos disparos. Con el lente 17-70, asumiendo que lo llevas a su extremo gran angular (17 mm) y lo orientas de manera vertical, puedes cubrir unos 40 grados verticales por hilera, de manera que para fotografiar 180 grados necesitas hacerlo en varias vueltas. Para la mayoria de los programas de edicion es irrelevante el orden en que haces las tomas pero siempre es muy importante que las imagenes se superpongan lo bastante como para encontrar muchos puntos de referencia. Lo ideal es que las fotos se encimen un 25/30% por cada lado, incluyendo hacia arriba y hacia abajo. Tambien es fundamental que la camara gire alrededor del exacto punto nodal del lente. Para aclarar tu duda al respecto te invitamos a ver la URL adjunta a este comentario. Alli hemos ampliado el articulo para responder a tu duda. Gracias y Saludos.


Gonzalo ( says :

Donde me pongo para dispara la foto Esférica. y no salir. disparo con el disparador de tiempo y me salgo de la habitación?


360 Facil ( says :

Gracias por tu consulta Gonzalo. Si puedes salirte de la habitacion es la mejor manera, pues asi te aseguras que en las fotos no sales tu, ni tu sombra, ni tu imagen o tu sombra reflejadas en algun vidrio o espejo. Si no puedes, basta conque te ubiques siempre detras de la camara y tengas cuidado con las sombras y reflejos. Para fotografiar al cenit asegurate de agacharte y para fotografiar el nadir ubicate detras del rotador nodal. Buena suerte y saludos!


miguel ( says :

Hola mi pregunta es se puede hacer un recorrido 360 pero con vinculación a otras áreas y como sería gracias...


360 Facil ( says :

Hola Miguel. Gracias por tu consulta. Todos los programas del listado que encuentras siguiendo el vinculo al pie de este comentario tienen como funcion especifica crear Tours Virtuales vinculados. Sin embargo no son los unicos puesto que la mayoria de los programas de publicacion tambien permiten la inclusion de vinculos o hotspots. Para mas detalles te recomendamos ver la ayuda de cada uno de estos programas. Incluiremos el tema en el Tutorial en cuanto nos sea posible. Buena suerte y saludos!


vjmas (Email) says :

enhorabuena por el tutorial, la mayoria de las esfericas que no puedo completar es por el tema del nadir, tambien en alguna otra ocasion no el programa no reconoce las tomas del zenit cuando es por ejemplo un cielo azul sin referencias, suelo usar autopanogiga. un saludo.


360 Facil ( says :

Gracias y saludos para ti vjmas!


Alexis ( says :

que se hace despues de tener la esferica asi como se ve en tu foto (plana), donde la tengo que meter o visualizar para que se vea interactiva y pueda girar a la derecha , a la izquierda, arriba y abajo?, esque ya me salio la foto como la del ejercicio, pero despues ya no se que hacer para que sea interactiva. Agradezco tu información y muy buenos post


360 Facil ( says :

Hola Alexo. Gracias por tu mensaje. Hemos respondido otro mensaje tuyo similar con anterioridad. Por favor haz click en la URL al pie de este comentario para visitar la pagina con la respuesta. Buena suerte y saludos!


Todo Viento ( says :

Hola!!! Ante todo mil gracias por este blog. Viene siendo mi biblia 360 : ) Mi consulta es la siguiente: Compré el panosaurus 2.0 y un rokinon 8mm, y me resulta bastante inestable e incómodo todo el setup. La cámara se mueve bastante! Estoy considerando comprar el giga pan epic pro -y para esto necesito vender lo anteriormente mencionado-, y usar otro lente de 35 mm, o directamente el que viene con el kit de la cámara. Lo que no me termina de quedar claro es, si usando el giga pan, puedo elegir el tamaño de la imagen final (no me interesa demasiado lo giga, más bien lo automático del robot). Sólo quiero realizar fotos esféricas de un modo un poco más práctico, y esta sería una gran inversión! Te agradezco de antemano por los consejos!! Saludos!





Daniel ( says :

Hola, queria saber como se hace el link para pasar de una foto 360 a otra gracias


Add A Question Or Comment

All fields are optional. Messages not regarding the subject may be moderated.

Write 123 here (anti-spam check)

Send me a reminder of this publication.

If you like 360 Facil please share it with your social networks


With any camera

360 Degree Interactive Panoramas
In Three Easy Steps

After reading this tutorial you'll be able to create your first 360 degree interactive photography with the camera you already have :

1 - Photograph
1 - Fotografiar

Take one or more pictures of the place you want to show.

2 - Edit
2 - Editar

Convert your pictures into 360 degree panoramas.

3 - Publish
3 - Publicar

Make your panoramas interactive and available to the world on the internet.

Start Tutorial

If a picture is worth a thousand words, a 360 degree interactive panorama is worth a thousand pictures...


Online Virtual Tour Creator

Using the online virtual tour creator you can :

Convert your 360 degree pictures to virtual tours with a single click.

Insert your virtual tours into web sites, emails, blogs or wherever you like by just copying and pasting a text.

Know in a practical way all kinds of 360 degree pictures.

Discover that you can create hundreds of interactive virtual tours just as easily as you take pictures with your camera.

Check that with just one click from your camera and another click from your mouse it is possible to create a 360 degree interactive virtual tour out of nothing. And completely free of charge!!!

You can get started right now, even if you don't have a camera

Create Virtual Tour Now

Find us in Facebook and thank you for your Like.